Bermondsey Frier by Kappacasein
BY NICK MACMAHON | 2 MAY 2019
A raw cows’ milk cheese from the master of melted cheese, Bill Oglethorpe of Kappacasein Dairy. This is a fresh, un-aged cheese designed to be cooked. No, this is not halloumi and calling it that, or ‘an alternative to halloumi’ is really selling it short. It was actually inspired by an Italian style of cheese simply called ‘Formaggio Cotto’ or ‘cooked cheese’.
When pan-fried or grilled, the Bermondsey Frier has the squeakiness and the crispy, golden brown exterior of halloumi. Be wary though, this cheese doesn’t have a similar melting point, so it will melt when cooked. The end result is somewhere between halloumi and melting mozzarella. The best characteristics of both kinds of cheese.
Crafted at the Kappacasein dairy in Bermondsey, this cheese is made in the same way as their Bermondsey Hard Pressed, a hard, Gruyere style cheese, aged for up to 18 months. The only difference is that this cheese doesn’t go through any ageing process. The same process to begin with but two entirely different cheeses.
To form the cheese, the curds are put into rectangular plastic moulds, resulting in a shape that can best be described as a ‘loaf of cheese’. One could imagine that one of these ‘loaves’ if roasted or barbecued would go down incredibly well as a vegetarian version of a roast side of beef. Served whole at the tabled and sliced to serve. See ya later, nut loaf. Bill also notes that this cheese pairs well with one of his other cheeses, the raclette, in a toasted sandwich with pickles. Indulgent but very impressive.