BY NICK MACMAHON | 4 JUNE 2019
Italy has N’duja, Spain has Sobrasada, now we have a properly British, spreadable sausage; Crown and Queue’s ‘Devil’s Mortar’.
This cured sausage is made from high welfare, British heritage breed pork and mixed with fiery ‘devilling’ spices taken from a 19th-century Scottish recipe. Spices like cayenne and chilli are combined with umami-loaded anchovy oil and dried tomato.
The soft texture of ‘Devil’s Mortar’ is due to its high-fat content. This makes it perfect for spreading on toast or crostini. You can also use it in cooking, try incorporating it into a soup or stew, or as a pizza topping (cooked or uncooked).
Crown and Queue’s owner, Adrienne Eiser Treeby, describes it as a sort of ‘meat butter’. She strongly advocates the use of Devil’s Mortar in place of butter or oil in cooking. Frying the Devil’s Mortar over a low heat renders out the fat and really brings out the devilling spices. Using this to then fry an egg is an incredible and indulgent experience.
Here is a recipe for Devil's Mortar Macaroni. The sausage is fried before being mixed with pasta and served with an egg yolk. Rich, spicy and delicious.